If you choose to use repeaters with regular bulbs in, I personally would take the feed from the new indicator relay you will be fitting in the boot and feed it back to the front to power them. In doing this, you are assured that your smart junction box will be safe and not overloaded over time.
The reason you may want to use LED repeaters is because you can link them straight from the front indicators without running them through relays. Their electricity consumption is so minimal, that it is thought that they will not affect the SJB unit.
For the purposes of the light conversion detailed on this site, you don’t actually need a lighting diagram. However, in case you are modifying another part of your Mustang lighting wiring circuit, you can download from this page the S197 lighting wiring diagrams.
If the HMRC smell a rat with your declared value they will ask for the bill of sale and proof of payment for a corresponding amount. Import duty is 10% on cars and 22% on trucks plus VAT on cost price, shipping and import tax. (Yes – tax on tax – greedy aren’t they?)
What they don’t have is an integral sidelight, and you need a white sidelight for UK/EU lighting regulations. Your choice here is either to drill and insert a small white LED or 1.5w bulb and holder beside the existing headlamp bulb, or buy a pair of BMW style ‘Angel Eye’ headlamps as pictured below.
No significantly greater loads on any existing circuits is your aim. This is why you do not just link your back lights off your front ones, or a few months later you need a new SJB. This is what the relays you will be using are for, the existing circuits will switch the relays and the actual power will come from elsewhere thus bypassing the SJB.
So what do you do with your old ones? First thing is don’t be a clown and assume that because you paid £130 for your new Euro ones that your old “genuine USA tail lights” are worth £100 of anyones money – they are not!
The inner unit is the fog lamp, the outer is side/tail the centre is the indicator and the reverse is below it. All the lights you need are in this one unit, they are “E Marked” so will pass the test at VOSA. They have a little box on the wiring that takes care of the US tail/brake/turn feeds and you need only add new brake, indicator and fog light feeds.
For the DIY light converter, these are easiest by far to work with. Several places sell them at various prices, but I always get mine from eBay for around £120-£130 including delivery.
The opinions expressed are the authors’ own and any examples contained within this site are for illustrative purposes only. Readers are urged to do further investigation before undertaking the work as described.
